Negro "Sudisfa" Roero Docg 2004

Negro “Sudisfa”, Roero D.o.c.g. 2004

Dinign at the Hotel du Vin in Henley-on-Thames. Served with rib-eye and bearnaise sauce and frites…. This is a Nebbiolo from a good family estate in Piedmont. I wanted a Barolo, but they were all over £100 +. This was £61, which I find outrageous. It presented well, with its garnet, ruby robe. The nose was intensely perfumed and inticing and the first attack was decisive and forward. But then it all fell apart … the mid-palate disappeared and there was no finish. The alcohol dominated this wine and it has faded fast. Disappointing.

English Wine Producers Trade & Press Tasting - 2011

Thursday 5^th May 2011

Thames & Chilterns Vineyards Association

2010 Bothy Oxford Dry

Grapes: Findling, Kerner, Huxelrebe, Solaris, Bacchus

This is meant to be a dry white and is not dry enough, really. Has a touch of bitterness and a very odd finish. Unfocused and lacking identity - too many grapes in the mix. Good wine-making, though.

2010 Bothy

100% Bacchus. Picked too young? Formaldehyde-green "freshness", very “chimique”. Good acidity.

2006 Stanlake Park Wine Estate Brut NV (sparkling)

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. No dosage. Not bad.

2009 Stanlake Park Wine Estate Pinot Blush

Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and 2 others. Yes, it should be blushing, with embarrassment.

2009 Stanlake Park Wine Estate Madeleine

This is a nice, “understandable” grape. It has personality and the wine is well-made and expresses the grape in a focused and clear fashion.

2009 Stanlake Park Wine Estate Bacchus

This is a clear expression of Bacchus: solid, dry almost in a Pinot Grigio style but with its own personality. Good.

SPARKLING WHITES

Chapel Down Vintage Reserve Brut NV

Grapes: Reichensteiner, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay.

Les boules sont trop mousseaux en bouche. Inélégant et lourdes.

Three Choirs Classic Cuvee NV

(85% Seyval Blanc, 15% Pinot Noir)

Sal au nez et en bouche

2007 Brightwell Sparkling Chardonnay

Savonneuse et sal. Pas bien.

2003 Nyetimber Blancs de Blancs

100% Chardonnay. It’s ok> but boring and lacking any complexity. Very one-dimensional.

2006 Nyetimber Classic Cuvee

55% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Noir, 16% Pinot Meunier. Not bad, well-made.

2006 Chapel Down

50% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Trop de dosage : too dosed, too sweet.

Stanlake Park Wine Estate Stanlake Brut NV

Had this at earlier and liked it. It’s tight, correct, good.

2004 Chapel Down Pinot Reserve

70% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot blanc. Well-made, correct, but no more than that.

2009 Three Choirs Blanc de Noirs

100% Pinot Noir. Une manque de parfum, aucun nez ou bouche (lack of aromas or taste – nothing there.)

2006 Denbies Cubitt Sparkling Cuvee

100% Pinot Noir – ok, but again, these wine are lacking complexity, movement, texture.

2008 Ridgeview Knightsbridge Blanc de Noirs

63% Pinot Noir, 37% Pinot Meunier. This is interesting, has some personality.

STILL DRY WHITE

2010 Chapel Down Flint Dry

(Chardonnay, Baccus, Huxelrube, Pinot Blanc) There is nothing either dry nor flinty about this wine. Unfocused.

2009 Three Choirs The English House Dry

(40% Seyval Blanc, 20% Huxelrube, 20% Phoenix, 20% Madeleine Angevine) Nice.

2009 Three Choirs Midsummer Hill

(35% Seyval Blanc, 30% Madeleine Angevine, 15% Orion, 15% Muller-Thurgau)

Yes. This estate is doing something right.

2009 Three Choirs Estate Reserve Coleridge Hill

(40% Phoenix, 30% Madeleine Angevine, 15% Orion, 15% Muller-Thurgau)

Nice. I am enjoying these, but is that simply because they are the best of a boring bunch ?

2009 Brightwell Oxford Flint

100% Huxelrube. Nice.

2008 Brightwell Crispin

100% Reichensteiner. Better, it is interesting to get a chance to taste this grape on its own. I do not know it well at all. Dry, tight, focused.

2009 Chapel Down Chardonnay

Gross

2009 Chapel Down Pinot Blanc

Ok, harmless enough.

2009 Three Choirs Cellar Door Bacchus

Gross

2009 Brightwell Bacchus

Nicely done – lovely acidity.

2007 Stanlake Park Wine Estate Kings Fumé

100% Ortega. All goes terribly wrong here. The fault of the grape or the fault o the oak programme ? It is over-oaked, diluted and disguting. Is it a variety that can take oak if done properly ? This is a mess.

2009 Astley Veritas

100% Kerner. Interesting. Liked this.Unchaptalised.

2009 Biddenden Gribble Bridge Dornfelder

Not as nice as Brightwell’s. Has a very bon-bon cherry medicinal taste.

2010 Bolney Estate Pinot Noir

Nice, but no varietal character, at least not what one would expect. I’m all for variations on a theme, but show me a theme.

2009 Chapel Down Trinity

Pinot Noir, Rondo, Pinot Noir Precoce. Hideous. A dirty, diluted soup of smoked bacon.

2008 Bolney Wine estate Lynchgate red (Dark Harvest)

Rondo, Dornfelder, Triomphe. Austere, bitter, unyielding and non-interestring. Again, it these wines are not saying anything or communicating clearly … all gibberish and confused.

Castello di Montevibiano, Umbria

SUNDAY (afternoon)

Tasting and Visit to the Castello di Montevibiano Vecchio estate (www.montevibiano.it). A gorgeous afternoon spent in the company of the charming Count Lorenzo Fasola Bologna, the CEO of the family business, and his family…on the sun-drenched grass terrace of the Castello, overlooking the Umbrian hillsides and valleys. There was a table heaving with local cheese and their own olive oil, which his father en freezes in little bottles and then defrosts before downing one  in one go, like a daily vitamin shot. Addictive - especially when it drenches a slice of their home-made bread and is accompanied by their Umbrian white. Lorenzo’s Italian/Iranian wife turns out to be a cousin of my step-daughter’s best friend – they met in boarding school days as girls. Weird. They have a very good web-site with all of their wines and olive oils and gift hampers that are sent directly to the UK and USA – with the shipping and duty included in the prices: no hassle.

Villa Monte Vibiano Vecchio Rosso Umbria IGT 2007

Using the youngest plantings from the vineyards, this is meant to be a young, fresh, easy-to-drink wine. Both the alcoholic and the malolactic fermentations are done in stainless steel tanks. It is bottles five months after harvest. It is exactly that: fresh, lively, fruity and approachable.

Monvì 2006, Colli Perugini Rosso DOC

Here they also use the younger plantings, but a bit older than the IGT, of Sangiovese, Syrah, Sagrantino, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. 80% is aged for six months in stainless steel and 20% in French oak for one year, then bottled for left for another two months before release. This oak programme is exactly right for the fruit: no overpowering, just perfect accord. A lovely, complex, fruity, well-balanced wine. An Italian wine.

L’Andrea 2006, Colli Perugini Rosso DOC

The same grapes are used than as in the Monvi, but those from their oldest vines: more concentrated fruit means it can take a more concentrated oak programme: a minimum of 14 months in French oal barrels, then tanks for 2-3 months, then bottling for six months eofre release. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented for 20-25 days.  Notes of fresh almonds, tobacco, ripe red fruit…an intense and elegant wine.

Umbrian Overview with Sandro Camille of AIS

3 APRIL, SUNDAY (morning)

At hotel: Tasting of the region’s best wines, organised by AIS (Italian Association of Sommeliers), President Sandro Camille

UMBRIA: SOME FACTS …

1. Etruscan heritage. Vines were actually trees that were not connected to other plants. Monks played an important role in preserving vine growing.
2. Grew grapes for church – lots of monasteries in Umbria. Monks came from all over the world and brought their grape varieties with them.
3. In late 1800s  phylloxera - so 1960s new plantings.
4. 8456 square kilometres
5. 75% is hillsides
6. The 29 % mountain areas
7. A mild and dry climate
8. Entire region faces south
9. Summers are hot
10. So large difference in temperature between day and night and between the seasons
11. 12,189 hectares of vineyards
12. Soil: argille, calcari, marne grigie, tufo, volcanic
13. Whites : 43%  red 57%
14. Production 2009 : 945,000 hl
15. Used to be majority of whites – now the opposite.
16. Orvieto still dominated by whites
17. Umbria produces 2% of Italy’s wine
18. GRAPES:  Trebbiano tuscano, Sangiovese, Grechetto, Merlot, Sagrantino, Cab sauv, Malvasie, Chardonnay, Verdello, Pinot Grigio, Ciliegioao, Montepulicano,
19. Gamay del Trasimeno, Pinot Nero, Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet franc, Barbera ..
20. Alirir: Trebbiano spoletto, Sauvignon blanc, Manzoni blanc, Alcatrico Dolcetto, Riesling italico, Colorino, Cesanese
21. Grechetto is THE most typical grape of the region
22. And Sagrantino and Sangiovese
23. 2 DOCG and 11 DOC
24. Other DOCs being created as we speak
25. 36 months from barrel to bottle
26. 5 year refinement process plus the 36 months
27. Riserva only come from a very small hillside vineyard

TASTING

CONTE DELLA VIPERA IGT 2007

Chardonnay/Sauvignon blanc.  He won’t tell us which percentages! He says that whites here are not very acidic. A warm region and getting warmer – yes, climate change is a factor. Finally he said it. Nez: floral, white flowers, elegant, fresh. Palate is acidic, and structured and not bad.

PALAZONE CAMPO GUARDIANO 2008 Orvieto Classico Superior

Greccheto, Trebbianno and Lupiego. Very little nose – palate bitter, lack of acidity …but finish is surprisingly persistent.

CORNIOLO Colli del Trasimeno Rooso Riserva 2007

Liked this one. Fresh, lively, elegant nose jammy and fruity. Ok, my favourite.

L’ARRINGATORE 2006 Goretti

Sangiovese 60%, merlot 30%, Cilliegiolo 10% 14%

Was a bit weird on the nose – salty, and huge tannins – undrinkable. So, went back to the nose later, and found it oaky and - still horrible on the mouth and finish.

CHIUSA DI PANNONE  Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2004 chez Antonelli

Very nice. Nose perfumed, mouth elegant and fresh but then the alcohol and tannins take over… a 2004, way too young. Very green tannins and bitterness on the fnish.  Went back to it a second time and it was better. Still clumsy and urgh at the end. Boring and hot.   Everyone else loved this wine.

RUBINO della PALAZZOLA2005  IGT

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Why try to do a Bordeaux blend in Umbria? Boring, unbalanced, malfait.  Horse nose, ok mouth, and then no finish:  hot dry and amer.  Went back to it and think now it is even worse!

RUBESCO Vigna Monticchio 2005, Lungarotti

Sangiovese and Caniaolo. Best nose. Elegant and fresh. Mouth also fresh. Too much alcohol on the finish: fruit and boy evaporates.

(Most of these wines are being sold at retail between 15-20 euros!)

Lungarotti tasting at Tre Vaselle, Torgiano

2 APRIL,  SATURDAY

Tasting of Lungarotti wines at our hotel spa (which belongs to the winery), Tre Vaselle, Torgiano, Umbria

They have 250 hectares at Torgiano.

LUNGAROTTI

Bianco di Torgiano 2010

We’d had the 2009 at lunch. 70% Trebbiano and 30% Grechetto. 4.4 euros HT. Nose is delicious, white flowers, sweet peas …green tea. A slight lack of acidity and the finish was a touch green – just needs a bit of time.

Bianco di Torgiano “The Pine” Doc 2008

This parcel/vineyard has much more clay. 30% is put into barriques of mixed ages. 9.8 euros. Nose is subtle, elegant, a touch of resin and white flowers, but dominated by oak, still. No finish. Wine is too forward.

Rubesco, Rosso di Torgiano Doc 2007

70% Sangiovese, 30% Canaiolo. 5.4 euros. Oak casks of mixed ages used. Sommelier said “it is a wine that is easy to understand”. Hmmm. I found it to be mediocre, with a short, bitter and green finish. Like in Chianti, they are experimenting with Sangiovese clonal selection (Sangiovese Grosso) – warmer terroir here – less acidity – and you can taste this.

Rubesco Riserva “Vigna Monticchio” 2005

Plantings are 300 metres above sea level in clay soils. Harvests by hand – vendanges verts (green pruning) is rigourous (I still think the yields are too high). Sommelier said wine is still too young (yes) and that the wine has another 10 years on it (No, not enough fruit/extracts or acidity). Tannins are green, immature. Finish is dry, hot and short. I think it is missing too many things to eventually balance out and mature well.

San Giorgio Umbria Rosso 2004, Tenuta di Torgiano

40% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a “Super Umbrian”!! Produced in response to the Super Tuscans in Chianti. Meaning, they added Cabernet Sauvignon (or other international varieties) to their indigenous varieties, which is against the Doc and Docg rules – so added it to their IGT wines, for which the same rules did not apply. And these IGT wines gained more in international reputation and price than the supposedly superior Doc and Docg wines.

This is not bad, but like the others, falls apart at the finish…but I will go back to this wine again, and see if it was simply not tasting well today.

Rosso di Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso Doc 2008

75% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 10% Sagrantino. 7.3 euros. This was lovely, but I have a problem with the encépagement…Sagrantino is the grape grown and used in Montefalco wines (required in the Docg, flexible in the Doc) They have gone and stuck in Sangiovese and…Merlot (the sweetest red grape – so will soften the notoriously bitter, dark Sagrantino). I should not like this wine because it deforms the typicity of the wine – but I do. This was the best wine of the bunch.

Sagrantino, Montefalco Sagrantino, Docg 2007

100% Sagrantino. 13.4 euros. They got the grape variety right here, but now I know why they added the Sangiovese and the Merlot to the Doc version! Their Sagrantino is not up to scratch…Turns out that they have 8-9 hectares and they are young – planted in 2000. That’s what I am tasting – a lack of concentration and maturity.

La Greppia restaurant, Verona

1 April, Friday

Closing dinner in honour of Vinitaly Concorso judges, at “La Greppia”, Verona

Pecorino “Terre di Chiete” 2010 IGT, Cantina Tollo, Abruzzo

100% Pecorino, from this cooperative, established in the 1960’s, and that works as a cooperative is meant to:  1,200 members, 9+ million bottles. This is no mass produced cooperative non-entity, it is a near perfect expression of this unique and appealing white grape. The nose is spring white flowers covered in morning dew…peaches and cream …all held together with a steely, solid acidity which dances across the palate. Refreshing, amusing and delicious.

Excelsa Soave 2010 Castelforte, Veneto

100% Garganega. I was keen to try this “new” expression of Excelsa as I have been hearing a lot about it but did not quite understand what it meant: I still do not. But apparently, the Soave producers are trying to revamp the Soave style to make it more appealing to the modern, international market, but, without losing its varietal or local typicity. They are calling this new style “Excelsa”, and I don’t know how they did it, but it works. This wine is gorgeous. It was supple, fruity, playful, yet solid and straight-forward with very clean lines and movement – the wine drew you in and sort of directed you through its olfactive road show….

La Rocchetta Brut, Societa Agricola La Rocchetta

A sparkling wine issued from Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. It was the evening’s favourite wine: solid, weighty, complex, creamy and compelling. We drank it with the entire meal and it handled every course beautifully.

Trattoria Al Pompiere, Verona

Dinner at Trattoria Al Pompiere, Verona with Jane. She chose the wines and they were delicious - get their names from her. Dinner was stunning: stuffed artichokes, an assortment of jambons ...

www.alpompiere.com



Osteria Giulietta, Verona

Dinner at the Osteria Giulietta e Romeo, Corso S. Anastasia, Verona

Gorgeous Amarone selection – also the “house” Amarone was 8 Euros and stunning. Served with pumpkin ravioli, polenta with mushroom, a horsemeat stew. Wine bar-hopped with colleagues: Bottega del Vino  – new owners – had a bad Pinot Nero from Alto Adige and a mediocre Amarone. Also stopped at the tiny wine bar just across from Osteria – had a decent Amarone. The other evening all of the judges dined at a sort of BBQ restaurant with a dire wine list and we ended up drinking mass quantities of Masi’s Amarone …reliably appealing.

Gala Dinner for Vinitaly Judges at Due Torri

Valdobbiadene Prosecco Docg Superiore Rive di Colbertaldo Spumante Brut “Maschio dei Cavalieri” 2010

Cantine Maschio di Cantine Cooperative Riunite, Vassola (TV)

Oltrepò Pavese Docg Pinot Nero Spumante Brut Cruasé “Oltrenero”, Tenuta il Bosco Gruppo Zonin – Zenevredo (PV)

Soave Doc Clasico “Rocca Sveve” 2010, Cantine di Soave, Soave (VR)

Cerasualo d’Abruzzo Doc “Terra d’Aligi” 2010 cantine Spinelli, Atessa (CH)

Valpolicella Doc Superiore Ripasso “Monterè – Cà Dé Rocchi” 2008, Casa Vitivinicola Tinazzi, Lazise (VR)

Asti Docg 2010, Santero Fratelli – Santo Stefano Belbo (CN)



Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Villa dei Fiori 2008, Tenimenti Associati, Abruzzo

2 March, Wednesday

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Villa dei Fiori 2008, Tenimenti Associati, Abruzzo

Confusingly, although Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a grape from …Abruzzo (!). It should not be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Tuscany, which is issued from the Sangiovese grape It is100% Montepulciano, 12.4 % alcohol. The robe is intensly ruby red with reflections of violet. The nose has notes of tapenade, dark cherries stewed in cobbler, and on the mouth it is fresh, long and well-balanced. A truly rustic, Italian wine with a modern touch that does not compromise its integrity in the least. Fluid, velvety, full-bodied, dry, good tannins and a distinctly more feminine and elegant feel than the grape yields when in southern Abruzzo. Served with the best feast I have ever enjoyed: a Smörgåsbord of  delights…

Tuscany Tasting at Dorchester

1 March, Tuesday

Tuscany tasting at Dorchester, London.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2008, Fabbri

Located in Greve in Chianti. Hillside terrace-plantings, small yields. Experimenting with rootstocks. 20 months in oak, new and used. Gorgeous, loved it. Also tried the Sangiovese (80%)/Merlot (20%) 2008. Unoaked. Well-made, focused, uncomplicated but lacking any real personality. The Canniolo-blend 2008 was clean, fresh, a bit herbaceous.

L’Attesa Toscana Rosso IGT 2007, I Podero di Poggialgallo

Located in Montepulciano, purchased in 2002. Sweet (alc. 14%), boring, unbalanced, green tannins. Their Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2008 with Sangiovese, Colorino … had a closed nose that day, palate spicy and fresh, good finish. Rosso de Montepulciano 2009 with Colorino, Mammolo, Ciliegolo, 13% alc…fresh, elegant, fluid, but a bit boring.

 Morellino di Scansano DOC 2007, Roccapesta

Located in Maremma, southern Tuscany, along the coast. Completely different soils here. Enjoyed this. Solid nose: clean, fresh, spicy, chocolate. Good acidity, fluid on the mouth. The 2008 had a few green tannins.

Sammartino Chianti DOCG 2008, San Martino Carpignone

15/25 hectares planted with vines in Florentine hills between Florence and Siena. 100% Sangiovese. Not overwhelmed - French oak – old and new. Gorgeous, fresh, balanced, vibrant. Clean, long finish.

Poggio alle Ripe DOCG 2006

Maturing well, elegant and powerful. Well-made. A touch of amerture on the finish.

Il Guido Chianti Montespertoli DOCG 2008, Tenuta Barbadoro

Sangiovese with a small amount of Merlot – can detect it. An easy-going, tasty wine but a green and bitter finish.

Toscana Domizio IGT Toscana 2008, Tenuta Barbadoro

Sangiovese 100%. Better, but still a bit green.

Auramaris Maremma Toscana Vermentino IGT 2010, Val di Toro

Another Maremma tenuta – near Grosseto. Planted in 2004 by Maria Cruciata and Hugh Constable Maxwell. Not bad. Nice acidity, salty-minerality. Fresh. But a bit too sweet. Finish is good and solid and clean.

Reviresco Maremma Toscana Sangiovese IGT 2009, Val di Toro

Again, refreshing acidity, good structure. Simple and straight-forward. No more.

Val di Toro 2008, Val di Toro

70% Sangiovese / 30% Montepulciano. Well-made, although a little thin. Nice  lively, peppery palate.

Dardo Toscana Sangiovese IGT 2009, Vignemastre

Sangiovese 85%, Syrah 10% and Merlot 5%. Interesting guy. Wanting to do a value for money, well-balanced wine: screw-caps, no wood barrels (used micro-oxygenation to age). It is clean and relatively focused, but taste is too medicinal. Fruit is too forward – cherry bon-bon style.

Tiratori Rosso di Toscana IGT 2008, Villa La Ripa

Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. Delicious. Well-balanced. Nice salty nose, fresh, mineral, and lively yet fluid and elegant palate with solid, ripe fruit. Good extracts. A well-made, grown-up wine.

Psycho Rosso di Toscana IGT 2008, Villa La Ripa

50% Sangiovese and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. The CS dominates the nose: too herbaceous. Sorts itself out on the palate, which is fresh and lively. 13.5% alcohol. Also tried their Sangiovese 100% - their basic wine – was superb. Better than the Psycho.

Alma Tobia Rioja Reserva 2002

Rioja Reserve 2002, Alma Tobia, Spain

This is our “house” wine at the moment – cannot get enough of it. 85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, 5% Mazuelo, 14 months in new French oak. Served this with a venison and port stew with polenta dumplings. 2002 is drinking perfectly. A huge wine, big, dark, intense, sensual…nose is an explosion of inviting ripe plum and figs, cigar tobacco, vanilla, old, crinkly leather and dried herbs. Well-balanced, perfect use of oak: enough fruit to handle it all. Finish clean and long. I think I will open another now …



St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio 2009

Pinot Grigio 2009, St. Michael-Eppan, Alto Adige, Italy

I picked this up in Waitrose, which is pretty much the only supermarket with a selection that I enjoy. They are very thin on Alto Adige…I love the Chardonnays and Pinot Neros and Lagreins from this stunning region in the north of Italy. This wine is just how a Pinto Grigio should be: lively, acidic, steely dry with a touch of floral and fruit – very aromatic but with a full body to carry it all through. Think of the colour grey, and smoky peat and chalky mountain cliffs and flush floral grass meadows.



Casino-Macul Antiguas Reservas Cab Sauv. 2008

Casino-Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Maipo Valley, Chile

Another bottle that finds its way onto the table a few times a month. It was introduced to us by family friend Robin Shuckburgh (The Oxford Wine Company), twenty years ago. It has everything about it that dislike: it is New World (although this winery dates from 1856 on land that has been planted since the 1500s), it is a mono-cépage (100% Cabernet sauvignon – which is the “flour” in the Bordeaux blend and is infinitely more interesting and nuanced when blended), is high in alcohol (14%), and sat in new French oak barrels (as opposed to a mix of old and new so to not overpower the fruit). But I love it. It works. It is a jubilant, personable, bright, cheery, complex, full-bodied surprise…every time I drink it. Every year. Every bottle. Joy.

Falerno del Massico

Falerno del Massico Rosso DOC

Tasting at home with dinner. I met Nicola Trabucco and Masssimo at Vinitaly last year and they sent me all of these wines from a collection of different producers to taste. I have always been a big fan of Falerno, and the only one we can find in the UK is Villa Matilde, which is gorgeous, and which I tasted at my first Vinitaly in 1994, and fell in love. But we need more. Falerno is one of the oldest Roman appellations still in production. In general, their planting densities are about 5000 pieds par hectare and yields are about 70 hectolitres par hectare. This is a bit high and is further increased by the fact that their re-planted vines are young (about 5 years). The appellation is struggling with an image problem. Consumers are confused of which “style” is the “right” style for Falerno, because they are also allowed to make Falerno with Primitivo. It is not “wrong” to use it – all these grapes have been used forever in this area, but it means there exists another “sort” of Falerno. For me, I preferred those issued from Aglianico and Piedrosso. Again, we can drag the international vs traditional debate into the equation. Despite their using only indigenous varieties, there are some here trying to give their wines an international appeal: big extracts, big wood, big fruit. In this tasting the 2006 wines clearly stood out from the younger vintages and so I will go back to these in a few years and see if they mature as nicely as the 2006. In fact, I want to organise a more comprehensive tasting of these wines London this year. I need to taste these again – I swear that somewhere I have more complete notes on these wines…

Guarasi 2007, Fattoria Pagano

80% Aglianico Taurasi, 20% Piedrosso

Steel aging for 10 months, bottle, 6 months. Like this. Has a unique, personable style

Don Gennaro 2007, Cantina Capizzi

Liked it a lot. Elegant and well-made

80% Aglianico Taurasi and 20% Piedrosso. 12 months in barrique. 13.5 alc. High altiture plantings. Great body and structure. Tannins fondues, well-made.

Rapicano 2007, Trabucco

80/20 Aglianico, Piedrosso, as above. But hot, unbalanced? Potential? Awkward and unfocused. All over the place.

Angelus 2007, Fattoria Pagano

Again, same encépagement as above. Big first attack of cinnamon, spice, but heavily-oaked, too much?

Mille880 2007, Bianchini Rossetti

Same info – didn’t like it. Too cherry bon-bon, medicinal.

Ri Sassi  2006, Volpara

Highest elevation of the wines, 3 mos in barriques neufs, top of volcano, lots of sun, again, too hot, but nice.

Tuoro Reserve 2006, Volpara

Great finish, well made, elegant, good finish

I had an entire series of the 2006 and can’t find the notes – so instead, I will insert this article I wrote for Taste Italia! Magazine in March. You will see what I mean when I say that we need more Falerno available in the UK.

Falerno del Massico

The Ancient Romans loved their wines. This we know: Their literature is riddled with vinous references. The best-known and most comprehensive tome being Pliny the Eldest’s Natural History, in which he dedicates an entire volume (Book IVX) to wine cultivation and its classification. At the top of the list was Falernum, from the slopes of Mt. Falernus on the border between Latium and Campania.  This fabled wine even has its own legend: Bacchus descended one day, in disguise, upon the slopes of Mount Massico, where he met a poor farmer named Falerno. The farmer did not hesitate to offer his unexpected guest his best foods. Moved by the farmer’s generousity, Bacchus transformed his cup of milk into wine. Falerno drank deeply and fell into a long sleep. Upon his awakening, his land was covered in fertile vineyards. The ancient Falerno was a white wine that was aged 10-12 years until an amber colour. As with many of their wines, it was potent and thus, often cut with water to temper its alcohol content or with herbs, to reduce its acidity. Today, Falerno del Massico D.O.C. is still made from the Falanghina grape, which is thought to have been brought by Roman merchants from Greece and which is enjoying a major revival, as are all of the ancient varieties at the moment. The reds from this appellation are from the Aglianico, Piedirosso and Primitivo grapes. Truly historic!

TWO TO TRY

Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Bianco D.O.C. , 2007

£14.27 www.thesussexwinecompany.co.uk

Simply stunning. Family-run estate that has painstakingly re-established ancient vineyards. Wine is elegant, unctuously textured, with ripe pineapple, peach, sage, rose and more.

Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Rosso D.O.C. 2005

£14.69 www.thesussexwinecompany.co.uk

(or £100/6 bottles from www.everywine.co.uk )

The Rosso is 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedrosso. A heady beast of spicy, dark chocolate, black cherry and violets… Great balance and complexity.



Bibendum tasting and more wines at home

26 January

Bibendum tasting, London

Very difficult tasting. Over-crowded. Annoying room lay-out and catalogue: could not move easily from room to room, nor get anywhere near the wines. Tasted a few essentials needed for assignments, and left.

Riesling 2009, Wolf by Ernst Loosen

From Pfalz region – terroir more mineral than others. Superb.

Blue Slate Riesling 2009, Dr. Loosen

A fruitier style – lovely. Prefer previous.

Wehlener Riesling Kabinett 2007, Dr. Loosen

Perfectly constructed. Body, acidity, perfect balance – serious extracts.

Bernkasteler Rielsing Beerenauslese 2006, Dr. Loosen

Big, ripe, intoxicating fruit underscored with a perfect dose of lively acidity.

Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg 2008, Cave de Ribeauville, Alsace

Beautiful restraint and minerality.

Pinot Gris 2007, Jean Baltenweck, Alsace

Organic range. Very well-done. Elegant, discreet fruit and huge minerality.

Barbera 2009, Riva Leone, Piedmont, Italy

Salty minerality. Beautifully perfumed, but too alcoholic, hot and unbalanced.

Barbaresco 2008, Riva Leone

100% Nebbiolo…still too young but full of potential – strong varietal character and balanced tannins – to see.

Barolo 2006, Riva Leone

100% Nebbiolo…aging very well. Perfectly balanced. Clean, straight-forward, well-made.

Fico Grande Sangiovese 2010, Poderi dal Nespoli, Romagna

Very young, obviously. Nice minerality, correctly made. But more than that? A solid start, but will have to see.

Pinot Noir Alto Adige 2008, Alois Lageder

I love Pinots from AA…but this one was boring and had that medicinal cherry bon-bon taste that high-yield, thin, metallic Pinots can have. Attending producer was in fine fettle – rude, rude.

Krafuss Estate Pinot Nero 2007, Tenutae Lageder

Stunning, well-made: from nose to finish. Perfumes of lavender and silk, lively palate with good acidity, but not too much. Volnay in style. Superb.

Rully 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes Vincent Girardin 2007, Burgundy

(Bourgogne blanc) Thin, diluted, too much grapefruit (industrial-flavoured yeasts), little extracts, lacking structure and texture. Commercial in style. Typical of the 2007’s (a “restaurant” vintage) but this one did not do well at all.

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru En Virondot, Domaine Marc Morey 2004

Good matiere, solid, but over-oaked. Lacking acidity.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres Domaine Alain Chavy 2004

Superb. Well-balanced. Good extracts. Will cellar very well.

Meursault Domaine Matrot 2006

Very powerful – solid extracts and fruit. Well-balanced. Will cellar.

Meurault 1er Cru Blagny Domaine Matrot 2004

Intense and powerful fruit and matière. That typical “gout de vas”: the mineral, saltiness from the bottom of a stream.

Life from Stone Sauvignon blanc 2010, Springfield Estate, South Africa

I love this estate – tasted them first in South Africa in 2001. But this SB is too New World in style for me. Too overt and obvious. Prefer their Chardonnays.

Wild Yeast Chardonnay 2008, Springfied Estate, South Africa

Mineral and crisp, clean, big and fruity but restrained and elegant at the same time. Rivals a lot of the white burgundies lately.

Methode Ancienne Chardonnay 2006, Springfield Estate, South Africa

Even better. Solid, elegant, complex and layered. Perfect minerality and acidity. With that goût de vase you find in older white burgundies…so salty and earthy.

Chateau Villa Bel-Air 2003

Château Villa Bel-Air 2003¸ Graves, Bordeaux
13% alc, 50% Cab Sauv, 40% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc. Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch-Bages bought it in 1988. Black cherry, mocha, chocolate…Nose of sweet oak. Chalk. Cinnamon. Spice. Fresh. Clean. Fluid on the palate. Short finish. Well-balanced but too dry and short finish – will this sort itself out with age? Forest fruit. Stewed a bit. Oaky but not too tannic - still young and fresh and light.

Giardinelli's Salice Salentino DOC 2006, Puglia

Giardinelli’s 2006 Salice Salentino D.O.C., Puglia, Italy

Dinner at the Lord Nelson, Brightwell Baldwin, Oxfordshire. Served with Escalope of Veal with Parma ham, mozzarella, tomatoes and basil. Stared with the house Champagne with Tempura king prawns and sweet chilli sauce. Issued from 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera, 13% alc. I am a huge fan of the Negroamaro. And I have pledged to re-visit Puglia this year and explore it properly.  I love the huge collision between Negroamaro’s big, ripe fruit and its dark bitterness. It is black and brooding and unabashedly itself – a Greek tragedy hero - no compromising. This producer does not disappoint. It is a solid example: cherries, stewed figs, plums. Well-balanced – tannins are well-structured and the wine is not too alcoholic, it is fresh and lively, and allows its Puglian personality to seduce. Think of swaying willow trees, their roots clawing deep into muddy, clay soil, and ocean breezes tinged with olives and wild herbs…



Fresh & Wild wines

Fresh & Wild’s Tarantas Macabeo and Sauvignon blanc

Fresh & Wild’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo

These were brought for dinner by friends and I cannot remember the vintages - bottles were thrown out. Served with dinner at home: pumpkin and pine nut ravioli in a chestnut and cream sauce, spaghetti with pesto sauce, and bruschetta with caponata. This is my first foray into the Wholefoods wine list. I have heard good things about it, although I find their wine info on their web-site seriously dumbed-down in that condescending American way: “let’s use slang, idiomatic expressions and act cool – that will make the big wine words understandable for everyone”. I appreciate the desire to educate, but not the method. Wines are a bit expensive for what they are. That said, these two Spanish own-brands were perfect examples of the new move towards blending the indigenous and the European classic varieties – something that I normally do not condone (stay Spanish, please!). But here, it worked. The wines were clean, crisp, refreshing, bright, well-made, straight forward and agreeable.



Ch. Gruaurd Larose 2000 and Ch. Bellingard 2005

Bollinger La Grande Année 1997 (again, as above)

Lunch at home: starters of Cajun prawns, soufflé of scallops and porcini. Main course of Braised Beef in Chianti with polenta, cavolo nero and pancetta, mushrooms stuffed with spinach and mozzarella. Puddings: Vanilla cheesecake, almond and apple cobbler and cheese board (family members made the puddings!)

Château Gruaurd Larose 2000, Saint Julien, Bordeaux

Saint-Juliens are so distinctive with their powerful, highly aromatic elegance, and this château never lets me down It is never staid or austere, which frankly, is often the case with even the greatest Bordeaux (as opposed to mature, red Burgundies, for example – which are anything but restrained. They ooze and spill out of their glasses with feral ferocity) but always flirtatious and charming – a stunning success from a stunning year. Left bank – so a majority of cabernet sauvignon. This terroir-driven wine is racy and full-bodied: leather, cedar wood, smoky, chocolate and the darkest, plumiest shade of purple.

Château Belingard 2005, Monbazillac, Bergerac

I love the appellation of Monbazillac, and I have been drinking this chateau’s half-bottles for over a decade. Perfect size for opening for a mid-week meal: no guilt. This sweet wine rivals the neighbouring Sauternes and its “satellite” regions such as Cadillac, Lopiac, and Barsac. Issued from the same grapes as Sauternes (Semillon and Sauvignon blanc – and ok, a bit of Muscadelle), but so much more affordable. A stunning wine that always performs: Burnt rubber tyres, petrol, acids, warm roasted nuts, beeswax, honey, salt, a synchronised swimmer, an ocean wave, parched tundra after the rain, ripe tropical fruit and rot.